A Beginner's Guide to Japanese Onsen

I avoided onsen for my first two trips to Japan. The rules seemed complicated, the nudity seemed awkward, and I wasn't sure I'd do it right. But on my third trip, a friend convinced me to try one in Hakone, and I've been hooked ever since.

The rules are actually simple. First, you wash thoroughly before entering the bath—there are stools, buckets, and soap provided. Second, you don't wear anything in the water. Third, you keep your towel out of the bath (most people fold it on their head). Fourth, you stay quiet and relaxed.

That's it. Everything else is just variations on those themes.

The first time is the hardest. You'll feel self-conscious, and you'll worry about doing something wrong. But everyone else is focused on relaxing, not on you. After five minutes, you'll forget you were ever nervous.

There are thousands of onsen in Japan, from luxury ryokan with private baths to public bathhouses in every town. My favorites are the outdoor ones, rotenburo, where you can soak in hot water while looking at mountains or the sea.

A few practical tips: if you have tattoos, check ahead—some onsen don't allow them, though this is changing. If you're shy, look for kashikiri (private) onsen that you can rent by the hour. And if you're staying at a ryokan, the onsen is usually included in your room rate.

Onsen are one of the great pleasures of traveling in Japan. They're relaxing, yes, but they're also a window into a culture that values ritual, cleanliness, and taking time to do nothing. Give it a try. You'll be glad you did.