Two Weeks on New Zealand's South Island

We picked up the campervan in Christchurch and drove south, with no plan beyond 'see the mountains and the coast.' It was the best decision we made.

The South Island is built for road trips. The roads are good, the distances are manageable, and every turn reveals something new: a turquoise lake, a snow-capped peak, a beach with no footprints.

We spent the first few days in the Mackenzie Basin, camping by Lake Tekapo and hiking to the glacier viewpoints. The stars at night were absurd—so many you couldn't pick out constellations.

From there, we drove to Queenstown, then down to Milford Sound. The road to Milford is one of the most beautiful drives I've ever done: through rainforest, past waterfalls, into a valley so green it didn't look real.

We camped in DOC campsites, the Department of Conservation's network of basic campgrounds. Some had toilets and running water. Some had nothing but a patch of grass and a view. All of them cost less than $15 a night.

The South Island is expensive—food, fuel, and activities add up fast. But if you're willing to camp, cook your own meals, and skip the big-ticket tours, you can do it on a reasonable budget. We spent two weeks there for about $2,000 per person, including the campervan rental.

If you go, rent a campervan with a toilet. Freedom camping (camping outside of official sites) is restricted in many areas, and having a self-contained vehicle gives you more options. Bring layers—the weather changes fast. And don't over-plan. The best moments are the ones you don't see coming.